How to Make a Large Wooden Dog Bed

How to Make a Large Wooden Dog Bed

[ Music ] in this video I’m, going to be making a large dog fed as a commission for appliance it’s, going to be based on the design that I’ve made previously in a video on my Channel, but with a number of improvements for this build, I’d, use some oak veneered MDF.

I had this piece left over from a previous commission, but it had a few dirty bits from where I had had things spilt on it last time that it was in the workshop. But I worked out that I had just enough material to work with providing.

I didn’t, make any mistakes I made all of the cross. Cuts with my circular saw with a straight edge, guiding the cuts, and then I made the rip cuts at the table saw then I set up the table saw to cut at a 45 degree angle, and I’d used my panel cutting sled to Cut the ends of each panel to four miter joints, I sanded what would be the inside face of each of the panels much easier to do this now before it was assembled.

I also used my card scraper just to clean up any marks or imperfections left on the panels. Here I’m marking up the shape I wanted onto the side panels. I marked the height of the front panel onto one of the side panels.

Just by offering it up, and then I set my combination square to the thickness of the material made a mark from what would be the front of the side panel and then marked up for an angled cuts. You give the barest shape, then using a square.

I mocked up with a side panel. Miter joint would meet the front panel after marking up the shape. I decided I didn’t really like the way that looked so. I ended up making a second line a little further towards the front.

Then I placed the two side panels together, making sure that the mitered corners were facing inwards towards one another, and I made sure that the panels were perfectly flush before adding some tape to secure them together.

I could then cut the shape on the bandsaw through both panels, at the same time for consistency, [, Music, ]. So one of the problems that I had last time I built some similar dog beds was glue. Squeeze-Out and as this is veneered MDF, I didn’t want to risk sanding through the veneer when trying to remove the glue.

So this time I added some masking tape just to keep things clean, and I did that on the inside and the outside of each of the joints. I could then start applying glue and assembling the beds using some ratchet straps to pull the joints tight.

Another problem I had last time was that the ratchet straps caused some indentations on the corners of the bed. So this time I used these corner brackets. That came with the ratchet straps they just hook onto the straps, and these would protect the edges from being crushed.

These are a bit fiddly and awkward to get positioned correctly, but it made sense to spend the time to get this right. I used a speed square just to make sure that the joints were square and they looked good.

However, after tightening the straps, some more, I found that it had skewed slightly out of square so to force the corners back into square. I clamped on some of these clamping squares. Peter Millard has a great video about how to make these that’s.

Where I got the idea from, and I’ll link to that in the description box below [ Music ], you’re right. The client wanted oak trim and feet to match the panels of the bed. So while I was waiting for the glue to dry, I started looking through the oak I had, and I thought I had the perfect piece at the bottom of the shelf that I could just rip into strips to use as edge banding.

But after measuring the thickness of the oak veneer panels at 19 millimeters, I found that it wasn’t quite thick enough. By about a millimeter, then I remembered that a long time ago someone gave me some oak edge banding, and this measured 19 millimeters, which was perfect, but I’ve, always had reservations about iron-on edge banding.

I guess I have a fear of it becoming unstuck and not being as a robust as a real strip of hardwood would be, which is what I usually use to trim edges. But I thought that I should at least try it out.

So I put some onto a scrap piece of the same MDF material, and I was actually really surprised at how well it bonded so that gave me the confidence to use it. I got on with as much as I could, while the bed was clamped up like flushing up the top of the miter joints with a chisel and a block plane to, and I could mark up and add a few of the dowels that would be used to Help reinforce the miter joints.

I did this because the endgrain glue joints of MDF, wouldn’t, have been particularly strong. I drilled 8 millimeter holes and then glued in some 8 millimeter dowel [ Music ]. Once the glue had had a couple of hours to set, I removed the clamps, and at this point the glue wouldn’t have been fully cured, but it would be strong enough to allow me to remove the clamps and carry on working.

I cleaned up the ends of the dowels with a chisel. The back of the bed got three dowels on each side and the front got two on each side. Peeling off the masking tape from the inside of the bed was a little tricky, but it definitely beats cleaning off glue.

So I’m glad I used it. The next improvement that I wanted to make for this dog bed was to make a lightweight base for it. The previous dog beds that I made have solid MDF panels and those made the dog beds really heavy, which meant moving them around was difficult and when they eventually sold on my Etsy store, sending them via a courier was really expensive.

First, I marked up where I wanted to write a rebate to the inside bottom edges at the front and back of the bed. I clamped on a piece of wood along the long edge to give the base of the router more surface area to rest on that worked really well [, Music ].

I then squared up the corners of the rebate with a chisel. I took some internal measurements for the rebates and then cut some 12 millimeter MDF to size. I could then glue them in place and I fired some Brad nails to hold everything in place before reinforcing with some screws and you’ll see I’m holding the drill at an angle here, because I want the screws to go Through the MDF and into the side panels, these pieces of MDF would be supporting some bed slats that I’ll, be adding later so I wanted to make sure that they were good and strong.

Next, I started applying the edge banding. The piece at the front was just one straight piece running the length of the bed and that went on fine and for the side and back panels. I cut miter joints at the corners using a chisel.

I wasn’t sure if I would be able to get the edge banding to bend to this angle here, but I actually worked fine. I used a block of plywood just to really push it down firmly and then I sanded all of the edges and the edge banding blended in fantastically well with the oak veneered MDF.

So I thought I was done with the edge banding, but later in the video you’ll, see that it comes back to haunt me here. I’m measuring up how long I wanted to cut the bed slats, and for this I’d use some slats, which I salvaged from a cot which I found dumped in a supermarket carpark.

I knew that they would come in handy at some point. I cut a bunch of them to length at the miter saw until it looked like I had just enough and for this sort of job, where I want to space things out nice and evenly, I always tend to start from the center outwards.

I find it saves me having to do lots of maths to work out how to space things, so I glued and nailed a centre slat, and then I used a few slat off cuts as spacers between each one, while adding the risk and it worked out to Be just about perfect more by luck than judgment, but I knew that if I ran out of space for the last slat, I could always rip it down to be less wide at the table saw, but there was no need to do that this time.

The last thing I needed to make was the legs of the bed, and I found an offcut of oak for that. Some of my long-term viewers will recognize this stuff. So a shout out to the Hat and coach stand crew. These legs would need to be cut.

Quite short, because the client had a specific height in mind for the bed, so that her dogs were able to get in and out. I mucked up a taper for each of the legs and I cut that out at the bandsaw, using one of my new hand, screw clamps to keep my fingers a safe distance away from the blade I did some final sanding at the belt sander to shape them.

Usually, I would have removed the fluted edges, but for these legs I thought that they would look interesting with it retained after marking. Up where I wanted the legs to be positioned, I added some epoxy and glued and clamped them in place for 15 minutes or so, and then, when I was confident that the glue would hold well, I tipped the bed over and added a screw into each leg.

To secure them after doing some final sanding just to break over any sharp edges, I applied a couple of coats of mineral oil and I sanded lightly, with 400 grit paper in between coats to keep things nice and smooth.

So I thought I had finished this project, but I’ve just found that one of the edge banding strips has an air bubble in it, not sure if you can see that on camera, but because this is a commission, I need to sort this Out so what I think I’m going to do is cut the edge banding here where the angle changes.

So I need to cut this as square as possible. So I’m, going to use a small square and I’m just applying pressure with the chisel to try and cut through that edge banding strip. Now I’ll see if I can peel this away so this stuff.

Definitely sticks better than I thought it would now. I’m, going to hit the rest of this with the heat gun, to try and peel it off easier. Now I just need to remove the rest of this glue residue [ Applause ].

So this has actually turned out pretty nice, you can’t really see the join here and then further down. That looks pretty neat too. I added my makers mark to the bottom of the beds, and all that was left to do was to wait for the cushions to arrive.

The client wanted two of them with the bed and the packaging that the cushions came in was full of air, so there seemed only one good way to get rid of that, and if this bed manages to hold my considerable weight, it should be fine for the Dogs, so those cushions got packaged up with the bed and I’ve got it all set down in one package to the clients, and I’m, going to be releasing another video to follow this one, which is all about packaging things.

Up and sending them sounds boring. Doesn’t it well, maybe, but I’ve been doing this for a while, and I think I have some good tips to share plus I see a lot of questions about how to send handmade larger items in woodworking groups and forums.

So hopefully it’ll, be useful to some of you. This dog bed took between 10 and 11 hours to build, and I’m, really pleased with how it turned out, and for me, this project was all about refining a previous design.

To make it as good as possible, and I think it was a success – it came out much nicer than the original beds. Usually I just make one thing and then I move on to something else, so it’s, not often the case that I get to revisit a previous design and refine it.

So that was quite nice. I really hope the client will be happy with it and, of course, the dogs to this project also taught me that edge banding isn’t as bad as I suspected. It might be, it sticks really well, and while it probably isn’t as hard wearing as a strip of solid hardwood glued to an inch would be it’s fit for purpose.

I hope you enjoyed this video. Please subscribe for more weekly woodworking videos if you haven’t already, and thank you for watching [ Music ], you

Source : Youtube
Please follow and like us:

Related Posts